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横滨本地人住的区域叫做辨天区，“辨天”是附近岛屿的居民供奉的海上女神的名字。在这里，可以看到青松翠柏覆盖成荫的幽径；可以看到雕刻着奇异神像的门扉；可以看到深藏在竹林芦苇中的小桥；还可以看到在那幽暗无边的百年老杉遮蔽下的庵堂寺院，有多少礼佛高僧和孔门清客在里面度着茹斋素食的清苦岁月。在辨天区还可以看到几条一眼望不到头的长街，街上到处可以碰到成群的孩子，和几只长毛短腿的狮子狗以及一些懒洋洋的，但却十分讨人喜欢的淡黄色的无尾小猫在一起逗着玩。这些孩子一个个都是面色红润，两颊象熟透了的小苹果，看起来真象是从那些日本屏风上挖下来的俊娃娃。 The streets were crowded with people. Priests were passing in processions, beating their dreary tambourines; police and custom-house officers with pointed hats encrusted with lac and carrying two sabres hung to their waists; soldiers, clad in blue cotton with white stripes, and bearing guns; the Mikado's guards, enveloped in silken doubles, hauberks and coats of mail; and numbers of military folk of all ranks--for the military profession is as much respected in Japan as it is despised in China--went hither and thither in groups and pairs. Passepartout saw, too, begging friars, long-robed pilgrims, and simple civilians, with their warped and jet-black hair, big heads, long busts, slender legs, short stature, and complexions varying from copper-colour to a dead white, but never yellow, like the Chinese, from whom the Japanese widely differ. He did not fail to observe the curious equipages--carriages and palanquins, barrows supplied with sails, and litters made of bamboo; nor the women-- whom he thought not especially handsome--who took little steps with their little feet, whereon they wore canvas shoes, straw sandals, and clogs of worked wood, and who displayed tight-looking eyes, flat chests, teeth fashionably blackened, and gowns crossed with silken scarfs, tied in an enormous knot behind an ornament which the modern Parisian ladies seem to have borrowed from the dames of Japan. 大街上尽是些来来往往、络绎不绝的人群，其中有敲着单调的手鼓，列队走过的做法事的和尚；有政府的官吏；有头戴一顶漆花尖帽，腰挂两把东洋刀的海关吏或警察官，有身穿蓝地白纹棉军装背着前膛枪的士兵，也有穿着紧身绸上衣外套铠甲的天皇御林军。此外，街上还有许许多多各等各级的军人--因为当兵在日本受人尊敬的程度正象这种职业在中国受人轻视的程度是同样惊人。除了这些人以外，街上还有化缘乞食的僧侣和穿着长袍的香客以及普通的居民。这些人一个个都是头发乌黑光滑，头大，腿细，上身长，个子矮，肤色有深有浅，最深的似青铜一样阴黯，最浅的如白粉一般无光，但却绝没有一个象中国人那样的黄面孔。这一点是中国人和日本人基本上的差别。此外在各式各样的车辆行列里可以看见轿子、马匹、驮夫、篷车、漆花的古轿、双人软轿和竹子编成的床。还可以看到一些日本妇女来来往往，她们的脚不大，迈步很小，她们的脚上有的穿着布鞋，有的穿着草拖鞋或是特制的木屐。她们的样子并不漂亮，一个个用头巾吊起眼角，胸部紧束着压得象一块平板，牙齿按照时兴的样式染成黑色，但是她们穿着民族服装“和服”，样子倒很别致。“和服”是一种家常穿的长服，加上一条交织起来的缎带，下面是一条宽大的腰巾，在背后结成一朵大花结子。目前巴黎妇女那种最新式的装束很象是从这些日本妇女那里学来的。 Passepartout wandered for several hours in the midst of this motley crowd, looking in at the windows of the rich and curious shops, the jewellery establishments glittering with quaint Japanese ornaments, the restaurants decked with streamers and banners, the tea-houses, where the odorous beverage was being drunk with saki, a liquor concocted from the fermentation of rice, and the comfortable smoking-houses, where they were puffing, not opium, which is almost unknown in Japan, but a very fine, stringy tobacco. 在这些各色各样的人群中，路路通整整游逛了好几个钟头，他参观了街上那些稀奇古怪而又富丽堂皇的店铺；欣赏了堆满着金光夺目的日本首饰市场；张望了那些门前挂着花花绿绿的小旗子，而他却没钱进去的日本饭店；也瞧了瞧那些茶馆，那儿人们正在端着满杯喝着一种清香扑鼻、热气腾腾的用发酵大米作成的酒酿汤，此外他还看了那些香烟馆，那儿人们不是在吸鸦片，而是吸着一种气味芬芳的烟草，因为在日本吸鸦片的人，几乎可以说没有。 He went on till he found himself in the fields, in the midst of vast rice plantations. There he saw dazzling camellias expanding themselves, with flowers which were giving forth their last colours and perfumes, not on bushes, but on trees, and within bamboo enclosures, cherry, plum, and apple trees, which the Japanese cultivate rather for their blossoms than their fruit, and which queerly-fashioned, grinning scarecrows protected from the sparrows, pigeons, ravens, and other voracious birds. On the branches of the cedars were perched large eagles; amid the foliage of the weeping willows were herons, solemnly standing on one leg; and on every hand were crows, ducks, hawks, wild birds, and a multitude of cranes, which the Japanese consider sacred, and which to their minds symbolise long life and prosperity. 这时路路通已经到了郊外，四野尽是一望无际的稻田，这里有各色的鲜花，它们在展示着即将消逝的颜色，发散着最后的香味，其中也有盛开的山茶花，但是这种山茶花不是长在小山茶树丛里，而是长在成棵的大山茶树上。在那些筑有竹篱笆围墙的果树园里，种着樱桃树、李子树和苹果树。当地人种这些果树，与其说是为了卖果子倒不如说是为了卖花。果园里装置着怪模怪样的草人和不断发出尖锐响声的驱鸟机，防止那些麻雀、鸽子、乌鸦和其他贪食的鸟类来啄食果子。没有一棵高大的杉树上没有巨鹰的巢穴。没有一棵垂杨柳的树荫下看不到象在忧郁沉思着的单足独立的鹭鸶。这里到处都是小鸟、野鸭、山鹰和野雁，此外还有很多仙鹤，日本人把仙鹤当作神鸟看待，认为仙鹤是长命富贵的象征。 As he was strolling along, Passepartout espied some violets among the shrubs. 路路通正在这样信步游逛的时候，忽然在草丛里发现几棵紫萝兰。 
“妙啊！”他说，“这就是我的一顿晚饭。” But, on smelling them, he found that they were odourless. 但是当他闻了一下之后，却发现这些紫萝兰半点香味也没有。 "No chance there," thought he. “真倒霉！”他心里说。 The worthy fellow had certainly taken good care to eat as hearty a breakfast as possible before leaving the Carnatic; but, as he had been walking about all day, the demands of hunger were becoming importunate. He observed that the butchers stalls contained neither mutton, goat, nor pork; and, knowing also that it is a sacrilege to kill cattle, which are preserved solely for farming, he made up his mind that meat was far from plentiful in Yokohama-- nor was he mistaken; and, in default of butcher's meat, he could have wished for a quarter of wild boar or deer, a partridge, or some quails, some game or fish, which, with rice, the Japanese eat almost exclusively. But he found it necessary to keep up a stout heart, and to postpone the meal he craved till the following morning. 说实在话，这个小伙子因为有先见之明，所以在离开卡尔纳蒂克号之前他已经尽可能饱饱地大吃了一顿，可是跑了这一整天，他觉得肚子简直是空得要命。他曾经特别注意了一下：当地肉铺里的架子上根本就没有山羊肉、绵羊肉或是猪肉。他知道这里的牛只能留作耕田，杀牛是犯罪的。于是他便得出结论：在日本，肉食是很少的。这一点他确实没有看错，不过这倒没有什么，既然肉店里没有猪牛羊肉，他的肚子也完全习惯于吃别的肉，如野猪肉、鹿肉、鹧鸪肉、鹌鹑肉、家禽肉或鱼类等等。日本人吃大米的时候几乎就是只拿这些肉类作为副食。但是路路通对于自己当前的遭遇必须抱着逆来顺受的态度，至于搪塞肚子的问题只好拖到明天再去考虑。 Night came, and Passepartout re-entered the native quarter, where he wandered through the streets, lit by vari-coloured lanterns, looking on at the dancers, who were executing skilful steps and boundings, and the astrologers who stood in the open air with their telescopes. Then he came to the harbour, which was lit up by the resin torches of the fishermen, who were fishing from their boats. 黑夜来了。路路通又重新回到了辨天区。他在大街上溜溜达达，只见到处是五光十色的灯笼。他欣赏着那些闯江湖艺人的惊人绝技和那些在空地上招徕了许多观众来看望远镜的星象家。最后路路通又回到了港口，只见港里渔火点点，那是渔人用树脂燃起的火光，他们在诱惑海上的鱼群。 
大街上的行人终于渐渐少了。人群刚刚消失，就出现了查夜的警官，他们都穿着漂亮的制服，前后簇拥着一群侍从巡兵，简直象是出国的大使。每当路路通碰到这种神气后现的巡逻队的时候，他就开玩笑说：“好！不错啊！又是一个到欧洲去的日本使节团。” The next morning poor, jaded, famished Passepartout said to himself that he must get something to eat at all hazards, and the sooner he did so the better. He might, indeed, sell his watch; but he would have starved first. Now or never he must use the strong, if not melodious voice which nature had bestowed upon him. He knew several French and English songs, and resolved to try them upon the Japanese, who must be lovers of music, since they were for ever pounding on their cymbals, tam-tams, and tambourines, and could not but appreciate European talent. 第二天，路路通是又饿又累，他对自己说，不管三七二十一，得先想办法吃饭，越快越好！其实他还有一条出路，那就是卖掉他那只表，但是他宁愿饿死，也不肯卖表。不过，对于这个能干的小伙子来说，目前也正是一个机会，或者可以说是一个千载难逢的好机会，那就是靠他那虽然不怎么优美动听，但却浑厚有力的天赋歌喉去沿街卖唱。他颇会一些法国和英国的陈词旧调，于是他就决定去试试看。看样子日本人一定是喜欢音乐的，既然他们这里都听惯了铙钹、铜锣和大鼓的声音，他们也一定能欣赏一位欧洲声乐家的歌喉。 It was, perhaps, rather early in the morning to get up a concert, and the audience prematurely aroused from their slumbers, might not possibly pay their entertainer with coin bearing the Mikado's features. Passepartout therefore decided to wait several hours; and, as he was sauntering along, it occurred to him that he would seem rather too well dressed for a wandering artist. The idea struck him to change his garments for clothes more in harmony with his project; by which he might also get a little money to satisfy the immediate cravings of hunger. The resolution taken, it remained to carry it out. 不过要是马上就拉开场子卖唱，似乎时间还太早了一点，那些硬是被他吵醒了的歌迷八成也不会拿出铸着天皇肖像的钱币赏给歌手。路路通决定再等几个钟头，但是当他在路上走着的时候，忽然心血来潮，他觉得要是穿上一套江湖艺人的衣服，岂不更妙？这时，他就想到把自己的西装去换一套更适合于他现在身分的估衣，再说，拿西装换套估衣一定还能找回点钱来，那就可以立即拿来饱餐一顿。 It was only after a long search that Passepartout discovered a native dealer in old clothes, to whom he applied for an exchange. The man liked the European costume, and ere long Passepartout issued from his shop accoutred in an old Japanese coat, and a sort of one-sided turban, faded with long use. A few small pieces of silver, moreover, jingled in his pocket. 主意是拿定了，剩下的问题只是如何去做了。路路通找了老大半天才找到了一家日本估衣店。他向店主说明了来意，店主很喜欢他这套西装。过不一会儿，路路通就穿着一套旧和服戴着一顶由于陈旧而褪了色的花纹头巾走出了估衣店，而且在他口袋里还叮玲当啷地响着几块找回来的银币。 Good!" thought he. "I will imagine I am at the Carnival!" “妙啊！”路路通心里说，“现在我简直觉得是在过节了！” 
这个打扮成了日本人的小伙子如今头一桩事就是走进一家小小的茶饭铺，在那里叫一点零碎鸡鸭肉，弄了点米饭，他完全象是那种吃上顿愁下顿的人一样省吃俭用，凑合着吃完了这顿早饭。 "Now," thought he, when he had eaten heartily, "I mustn't lose my head. I can't sell this costume again for one still more Japanese. I must consider how to leave this country of the Sun, of which I shall not retain the most delightful of memories, as quickly as possible." 当他把肚子填饱了之后，他就对自己说：“现在我可不能糊里糊涂地过日子啊！要是把这一套估衣再卖了，想换一套更日本化的衣服，那是不可能的了。所以我必须快想办法，尽早地离开这个‘太阳之国’。这个地方留给我的只不过是一个倒霉的回忆罢了！”
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